Asheville – Philly Italian Pastas and Subs is a place where owner Howard Knepper goes out of his way to make sure his customers know that they come first. He laughed when he was told one of the reasons he was selected for this interview was because he loves to talk. The other reason was he runs a great business with great food. During the pandemic, it was a go-to place for Meal Train runs. They pack so much nutritious food into such a neat, deliverable package.
Knepper, however, said, “It’s all about the sauce. It’s the sauce that makes Italian restaurants Italian restaurants.” His marinara, however, is a cut above most stateside Italian restaurants’ because it is imported from Italy—not just Italy, but Sicily. “The climate in Southern Italy allows tomatoes and spices to grow differently and better tasting. You can rarely get the tomatoes to grow here,” he said.
The untrained Italian, however, may think it’s about the mombo-gonzo portions. The meatballs are the size of bocce balls and are no match for the dainty appetite. “They’re made with beef, pork, and veal with a lot of provolone cheese and an incredible marinara sauce,” editorialized Knepper. The “classic, overstuffed” two-pound Italian hoagie submarine is a colossal work of tasty freshness, food that makes you feel good eating it and afterward. “It’s real delicious!” remarked Knepper.
The idea for the place came from an old sub shop in Atlantic City that. It was famous for its overstuffed sandwiches, and Knepper gets excited just talking about it. It started as a family sidehussle during WWII, and it has been operating at the original location ever since.
Knepper said his sub rolls come from the JJ Cassone Bakery of Port Chester, New York, in business since 1910. He swears they’re the best. Then he uses “only the best, imported salami and capocollo.” He paused. “You don’t know what capocollo is? It’s spiced ham. It’s what makes it Italian. If you go to [American restaurants], they’ll give you pepperoni on their Italian subs, which is ridiculous!”
Knepper said his customers come from Asheville, Maggie Valley, and all over Western North Carolina and the country. “A lot of them will go out of their way.”
“I guess they would.”
“What do you mean by that? No. We’re right next to I-40, and you can see us through the trees in the winter. US 19-23 connects Asheville to Cherokee and Atlanta, and a lot of people avoid I-40 now. The DOT says 20,000 cars a day drive past us.” He continued, “People in Chicago, Baltimore, Detroit, Washington, DC—they all drive 45 minutes to get to great downtown restaurants from the suburbs. We’re only about 15 minutes from Asheville.”
Knepper said the key to his success is that customers can depend on getting excellent-quality food every single time. What’s fun about Philly Italian is Knepper’s exuberance over delivering excellence. One rarely finds the level of passion Knepper exudes, where each sandwich is a masterpiece and each customer – who of course always comes first – feels he’s being treated like a make-it-or-break-it opportunity of a lifetime.
Knepper says he hasn’t changed much since opening, except that everything keeps getting better. One of the things he likes best is the repeat customers who can’t resist telling their friends about the restaurant, and then they become repeat customers.
Philly Italian is takeout only, but it is now surrounded by self-seating outdoor dining spaces. Nice outdoor furniture has been added on two sides of the building. Some tables are under a temporary roof, and the others have bright red sunbrellas to match Philly Italian’s bright red tin roof. “They have red and white tablecloths now to look Italian, too,” he added.
Most of the humongous subs cost $13.90 and might just be enough for two. Two-foot subs, pastas, pizza, and baked fries are among other menu items. Knepper prefers customers to call their orders in (828-593-3580) ahead of time because each sandwich is prepared with the utmost care. This isn’t exactly fast food. But then, the best part of Italian meals is the company and the memories.
Knepper built the restaurant on his own land at 2768 Asheville Highway in Canton. The restaurant sits up from the highway in a slightly-industrialized stretch of the country road. He’s got great plans for the adjacent building, but he isn’t prepared to go public with them just yet.